Gemological grading for the lab-grown era New York Metropolitan Area · By appointment Client Intake
Education

How diamonds are actually graded.

Most buyers meet the 4Cs as marketing. Here is what they mean on a grading bench, with the diagrams graders actually work from.

The anatomy of a brilliant cut

Every grade on a report refers to a specific part of the stone. The vocabulary below is how a grader, a cutter, and an appraiser describe the same diamond without ambiguity.

Table width Total depth Crown angle Pavilion angle Crown Girdle Pavilion Culet Table
Fig. 01Cross-section of the round brilliant. The crown gathers light; the pavilion returns it. The proportions between them decide everything the eye sees.

Cut grading measures these proportions to a tenth of a degree. For round brilliants, our Excellent range follows the internationally accepted windows:

MeasurementExcellent rangeWhat happens outside it
Table54 – 60%Too large flattens fire; too small darkens the eye
Total depth59 – 63%Carat weight hides in depth the eye never sees
Crown angle32 – 36°Controls dispersion, the colored flashes
Pavilion angle40.6 – 41.8°A single degree off leaks light out of the stone

Cut: what the stone does with light

Cut is the only C that people fully control, and the one with the largest effect on beauty. The physics is unforgiving: light that enters the crown either returns to the eye or it doesn't:

Well-cut Light returns to the eye Too deep Leaks from the side Too shallow Leaks from the base
Fig. 02Why two one-carat diamonds of identical color and clarity can look nothing alike. A well-cut stone of modest grade outshines a poorly cut stone of higher grade, every time.

Color: graded by what it lacks

The scale runs from D (colorless) to Z (visibly tinted). Grading is comparative: the stone sits beside master stones of known grade under standardized lighting, and the grader judges where it falls. Near the top of the scale the differences are subtle enough that they can only be called against masters, never from memory and never from a photograph.

The D–Z color scale
D – F
Colorless
G – J
Near-colorless
K – M
Faint
N – R
Very light
S – Z
Light
Fig. 03The scale begins at D deliberately; its creators wanted no association with older A/B/AA systems. One grade of difference near the top is invisible to most eyes and real on every invoice.

Clarity: mapping what's inside

Clarity grades describe the internal and surface characteristics visible at 10× magnification. Graders map what they find on a plot, and those inclusions double as the stone's fingerprint, confirming that a returning stone is the same one graded before.

FL – IF
Flawless
VVS1 – VVS2
Very, very slightly included
VS1 – VS2
Very slightly included
SI1 – SI2
Slightly included
I1 – I3
Included
Fig. 04Face-up plots at increasing clarity grades. Red symbols follow the international plotting convention: dots for crystals, curves for feathers, lines for needles.

The shapes chart

Shape is not a grade, but every measurement on a report is read against the shape's expected geometry, and each shape carries a classic length-to-width ratio the trade considers well-proportioned.

Round Brilliant
Ratio 1.00
Oval
Ratio 1.30 – 1.50
Cushion
Ratio 1.00 – 1.10
Princess
Ratio 1.00
Emerald
Ratio 1.30 – 1.50
Radiant
Ratio 1.15 – 1.35
Pear
Ratio 1.45 – 1.65
Marquise
Ratio 1.85 – 2.10
Fig. 05The eight cuts we grade most, face-up. Outer line: the girdle outline. Inner line: the table. Ratios are the classic ranges; taste legitimately varies.
Five loose diamonds of different cuts on dark slate

Rare and revival cuts

Old and unusual cuts fell out of favor not because they are less beautiful, but because they are harder to grade and harder to mass-produce. A laboratory that measures geometry directly is not limited to the standard chart.

The Portuguese Cut
Tier upon tier of triangular facets with no table at all, meeting at a point. Face-up facet arrangement, drawn from a measured stone.
The Elongated Hexagonal Cut
A stretched six-sided step cut with long parallel facets running the length of the stone. Face-up facet arrangement, drawn from a measured stone.
The Old Mine Cut
The antique cushion brilliant: cut-corner table, broad kite mains, and an open culet visible through the face. Face-up facet arrangement, drawn from a measured stone.

Lab-grown diamonds, briefly

A laboratory-grown diamond is diamond: carbon crystallized in the same structure, with the same hardness, brilliance, and fire as a mined stone. The difference is origin: instead of forming over geological time, the crystal is grown in weeks, either under high pressure and high temperature (HPHT) or by chemical vapor deposition (CVD), in which carbon builds up layer by layer on a seed plate.

Because the material is identical, no gemologist can separate lab-grown from natural by eye, not with a loupe, not with experience. The separation is made by instruments that read a stone's physics. That fact sits at the center of everything a modern laboratory does.

Why grading matters just as much for lab-grown

The one-sentence version: a certificate that wasn't preceded by testing is a printout, not a report. Ask any laboratory, including ours, what was actually tested before the grades were written.

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